NAVIGATION
On Food Authenticity
by José F. Ureña Martínez
As a first-gen immigrant, I eat at Mexican restaurants to connect with my culture. I feel at home when I step into a Mexican market and take in the familiar smells and music. But most Mexican restaurant experiences aren’t as pleasant, and it’s exhausting to have to sort through all the muck to find a good one. This is especially true in Vermont. Sometimes I tell myself I’m going to stop this endless search, but I never do because I want these restaurants to succeed and I want to be immersed in my culture, if only for just an hour.
During college, my girlfriend (now wife) and I would take an annual summer trip to Wildwood, NJ. On one of those trips, we ended up at a Mexican restaurant, a sort-of-Mexican-restaurant, I quickly realized, when I noticed there were no brown people like me in sight. The food was nothing like what I grew up eating. It was bland, the salsas were wrong, and the tacos came in small metal holders. I remember thinking, how could someone call this Mexican food? This robbery and distortion of my culture was so disturbing that I stopped trusting all Mexican restaurants. If it wasn’t authentic, I wouldn’t eat there.
You may think I overreacted, but you have to understand: I grew up eating meals at home. We rarely ate out (and Mexican restaurant outings were even rarer), so when it came time for me to start choosing Mexican restaurants to eat at, it was a first. Eventually my obsession with authenticity got so bad that I couldn’t enjoy a meal at a Mexican restaurant because I had created a long list of criteria these restaurants had to meet in order to be satisfactory. You may have a similar list for the restaurants of your culture(s). My list (in no particular order) looked a little like this:
- It must have the exact version of the homecooked meal I had growing up
- It must be run by people who look like me
- It must serve cheap food
- It must be underground or in a shack on the side of the road
- It must be delicious
But most of these things, I’ve learned, help to perpetuate racist stereotypes and set our businesses up for failure. Our food is worth paying for. And if it needs to be expensive so the owner can pay their employees and themselves, then so be it—they are a business after all, and food and wages are high in Vermont.
A hole-in-the-wall has the best food, the dirtier the better. I’m ashamed of saying things like this in the past. It breaks my heart when I enter one of our restaurants with bare walls, simple tables, and no music, because I know that’s not what the owner dreamed of when they opened. This is the reality: immigrant communities don’t have the same access to institutional capital as white Americans due to legal status, language barriers, and financial literacy.
These days, I find myself spending my money at restaurants that serve food I find delicious. You won’t find me at Tex-Mex restaurants (unless I’m in the mood for a frozen margarita or big ass burrito, it’s complicated, I know) or Mexican restaurants owned and operated by non-Mexicans. I’m more flexible than I was when it comes to authentic recipes. I want Mexican food to evolve. Don’t get me wrong: family recipes have a history and soul, and carnitas and carne asada tacos are delicious, but we can’t let our cuisines get stuck in the past. I ask myself three questions of a modern Mexican restaurant: Is the food good? Is it using Mexican ingredients in an interesting and thoughtful way? Is the chef and owner Mexican?
I can’t tell you I’m no longer judgmental of restaurants—sometimes I tell friends that my apartment is the best Mexican restaurant in Vermont when I’m feeling spiteful. It’s not a good look, I know. But I’m trying to change, because I know that once I do, I’ll be able to embrace these restaurants and help them prosper.
About the Author
José F. Ureña Martínez (he/him) was born in Mexico and grew up in Pennsylvania. He is currently living in Vermont where he works as a flavor guru for Ben & Jerry’s. For the past three summers, he ran the pop-up, Casa Birria (now closed), with his wife, Lauren, and best friend, Weslie. He has a complicated relationship with food. Read more of José’s work on Substack at @joseurenamartinez.
COMMUNITY SPOTLIGHT
This month’s member spotlight is a feature on Ruth Steinmetz (she/her)!
Ruth has lived in Vermont for 14 years and is based in Winooski. She works across retail, interior design, and advocacy. She is also the owner of Steinmetz Realty and Interiors and Dwellness by Steinmetz.
She’s also interested in opening up their space for community gatherings and is considering starting a book club or a crafting circle. If that sparks your interest, reach out!
news FROM THE NETWORK
Looking for 2026 Spotlights!
VT PoC is looking to spotlight BIPOC community members in Vermont through our Saturday social media features and monthly newsletter!
Social Media Spotlights: Please email outreach@vtpoc.net or DM us on Instagram!
Don’t Forget to Take Advantage of VT PoC’s Resources!
Looking for new opportunities or ways to get involved?
We offer a variety of resources to support you—personally and professionally!
| Other Resources | |
|---|---|
| March 3 is Town Hall Meeting Day! | Check with your local town or city clerk for more information! |
| 50% Off Slope Space Membership for VT PoC Members! | Slope Space is a coworking community at Mountain Green Resort in Killington, Vermont — the only dedicated coworking space at a major East Coast ski resort. We offer flexible workspace solutions for freelancers, remote workers, and small businesses, including hourly drop-ins, shared desks, and dedicated desks, all backed by 1 Gbps business fiber. Check the newsletter in your email for the code! |
| Vermont Village School: Burlington Pilot Program Interest Form | Vermont Village School is offering a pilot program based out of Burlington area. This form will inform us of your students’ and families’ needs. The Vermont Village School pilot is an alternative educational space for BIPOC students to engage in liberation-oriented, student-led curriculum designed to encourage self-expression and cultivate learning in a social-oriented and communal classroom setting. The 6-hour Saturday courses are for existing home-schooled students and public school students alike. ANY AGES. |
| Chittenden County Regional Planning Commission: Shelburne Town Plan Community Survey | Shelburne is updating portions of its 2019 Town Plan, with a focus on housing, economic development, transportation, mobility, the environment, and community wellbeing. Your responses will help shape how Shelburne grows and invests in the future. This survey is anonymous. As a thank-you for your time, you may choose to enter a drawing for one of four $50 gift certificates to a local business. |
| Community Health Investment Fund Emerging Need Funding Application Fiscal Year 2026 | University of Vermont Medical Center seeks to address the top community health priorities by investing in local organizations. Applicants for funding must be non-profit, municipal, or other government organizations. Projects must primarily support community members in UVM Medical Center’s Health Service Area (Chittenden and Grand Isle Counties) and applications are accepted on a rolling basis. |
EVENTS
March 5 — VT PoC Membership Orientation: Welcome to The Fam!
New to VT PoC? Or maybe you have been following us for a while but still aren’t sure about all of our resources? Join us on the first Thursday of every month for our VT PoC Member Orientation: Welcome to The Fam!
We are excited to connect and help you get the most out of being part of the Fam!
March 13 — VT PoC Co-Work & Chill: Uncommon Coffee
Join us for VT PoC’s co-working sessions! Co-Work & Chill is a super informal space for chatting, getting out of the house, co-working, etc. Find us at Uncommon Coffee in Essex on Friday, March 13, from 11:30 to 2:30 pm!
Walk-ins are welcome, but feel free to let us know you’re coming by RSVPing at the link below.
Please note that this is a BIPOC affinity gathering. Thank you ✨
March 22 — VT PoC x Petra Cliffs: BIPOC Indoor Climb
VT PoC is excited to partner with Petra Cliffs again to welcome BIPOC folks to embark on an exhilarating ascent at our BIPOC Indoor Climbing one Sunday each month from 3:30 to 5:30 PM!
Please note there is a sliding scale payment with a suggested donation of $5.
Upcoming Dates:
January 25, 2026
February 22, 2026
March 22, 2026
March 28 — VT PoC x Chandler Center for the Arts: The Garifuna Collective Concert
Join VT PoC at the Chandler Center for the Arts for a special mixer and concert featuring The Garifuna Collective on March 28 from 5:30 to 9 PM!
Tickets are $15 and include a drink voucher. Meals and refreshments will also be available. Transportation available from Burlington!
March 31 — VT PoC Pop-Up: BIPOC Yoga with BYEP
VT PoC will be attending Burlington Yoga Equity Project (BYEP)’s FREE BIPOC Yoga Classes, and we invite you to join us for these healing sessions! These classes are available both in-person and virtually.
The VT PoC staff plan to attend the in-person sessions on the following dates:
Tuesday, January 6, from 5:45 PM to 7:00 PM
Tuesday, February 10, from 5:45 PM to 7:00 PM
Tuesday, March 31, from 5:45 PM to 7:00 PM
trainings & professional development
| Date | Workshop | Time | Location |
|---|---|---|---|
| All Month | Vermont Joblink: Interview Skills, Career Guidance, Resume Prep, Etc. | Multiple | |
| All Month | FREE Professional Development Workshops for Artists | Multiple | |
| Mar 10 | Mud Season Business Mixer | 4:30 PM – 6:30 PM | St. Johnsbury |
| Mar 17 | CVOEO: Keys to Credit | 4:00 PM – 6:00 PM | Virtual |
| Mar 18 | Climate Ready VT Workshop for Businesses | 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM | St. Johnsbury |
| Apr 1 | Discover St. J Business Workshops: How Do I Find Funding for My Small Business? | 5:30 PM – 7:00 PM | St. Johnsbury |
FUNDING & GRANTS
Thank you to everyone who applied for VT PoC’s Community Impact Grant!
Applications are closed—we hope to reopen this opportunity in the future. If you’d like to learn more or contribute, click the link below!
| Due Date | Grant | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Rolling | Haymarket People’s Fund: Urgent Response Grants | Up to $5,000 to help grassroots social change organizations respond quickly to unforeseen crises or opportunities that critically affect your organization and constituency. Includes unexpected events, political crises, or organizing opportunities. Grants are NOT to be used for ongoing program work (including expenses the organization should have anticipated), for financial crises, a projected funding shortfall, or because the group missed a funding deadline. |
| Rolling | Nonprofit Enhanced Rebate | For eligible 501(c)(3) nonprofits to purchase qualifying equipment or complete a custom project. |
| Rolling | Vermont Humanities Rapid Response Grants | Quick turn-around small grants for humanities-focused community projects. Awards up to $1,000. |
| Rolling | Grassroots Fund: Seed Grants | Support for community groups who represent a broad range of voices in their community and who are not being reached by other funders. |
| Rolling | New England Presenter Travel Fund | Supports travel costs associated with researching artistic work that may eventually be presented in New England. |
| Rolling | Community Action Team | Offers general or project support within the broad guidelines and funding provided by the Ben & Jerry’s Foundation. |
| Rolling | USDA Small Business Cost Share Program | Businesses with fewer than 50 employees and gross profit under $1,000,000 are eligible. |
| Rolling | Social Equity: Vermont Cannabis Control Board | Individuals determined to meet social equity status by the Vermont Cannabis Control Board may be eligible. |
NEWS
Burlington Discover Jazz Festival Announces Opening, Closing Shows
The fest opens on June 3 with “The Beat Beneath Us,” a tribute to jazz drummer Max Roach featuring dancers Ronald K. Brown and Savion Glover.
Saffron by Dodo’s Kitchen Brings a New Indian Menu to Stowe
Owned by Sadananda Hira, co-operator of Café NOA in Montpelier, the restaurant will offer a classic northern Indian menu and some Bengali specialties.
